The Best Incubator for Quail Eggs (Top Picks for 2025)
If you’ve ever struggled with low hatch rates or uneven development, chances are the problem started with your incubator setup, not the eggs. I’ve tested everything from budget tabletop models to full cabinet systems here at Forget-Me-Not Quail Farm in Maine, and I can tell you firsthand… the right incubator can make or break a hatch.
I’ll walk you through how to choose the right incubator, what features actually matter, and the setup steps that can make all the difference in your hatch. I’ve also included my top incubator recommendations for Coturnix quail, the ones I’ve personally used, trust, and would buy again.
Why Choosing the Right Incubator Matters
Quail eggs are tiny, delicate, and sensitive to even small changes in temperature and humidity. An incubator that runs a degree too warm, fluctuates at night, or dries out between fills can ruin an otherwise perfect batch.
I learned early on that the “best” incubator isn’t always the most expensive. It’s the one that holds steady, cleans easily, and fits your hatching goals. Whether you’re hatching a dozen eggs for fun or running trays for customers, your incubator should make the job easier, not add to it.
What Really Matters in a Quail Egg Incubator
There are so many incubators out there (different sizes, features, and price points) it’s easy to get lost trying to compare them all. But when it comes down to it, a few key things matter far more than all the extras. Here’s what to pay attention to before you buy one.
Capacity and Size
Start by matching your incubator to what you actually plan to hatch.
- Small batches (12–30 eggs): Tabletop models like the Nurture Right 360 or Brinsea Mini II are reliable, easy to use, and great for beginners.
- Medium to large batches (100–400+ eggs): If you plan to expand, a cabinet model like the Hatching Time Setter & Hatcher or GQF Sportsman 1502 is a smart investment. These hold temperature and humidity steady and can hatch multiple color lines at once.
If you’re still deciding how big to start your setup, take a look at how many Coturnix quail you should start with. It’ll help you match your incubator choice to your long-term goals and space. Once you’ve figured out the size you need, pay attention to how steady each model holds temperature and humidity.
Temperature Control and Stability
Keeping the temperature steady is a huge factor in a good hatch.
- Forced-air incubators circulate heat evenly and are ideal for quail eggs.
- Still-air incubators require careful monitoring since heat rises and can vary by a few degrees inside the chamber.
Set your temperature to 99.5°F for forced-air models or 101°F (at the top of the eggs) if you’re using still-air. Let it run for a full day before adding eggs, just to be sure it’s holding steady.
Humidity Control
Keep humidity around 45–50% during incubation, then bump it up to about 65–70% during hatch (days 15–18).
If your incubator doesn’t have automatic humidity control, a small digital hygrometer and a spray bottle of distilled water go a long way. I like models with built-in humidity trays and fewer open spots where moisture can escape.
Automatic Egg Turning
Turning prevents embryos from sticking to the shell and improves hatch rates. Quail eggs should turn 3–5 times per day, or you can let an automatic turner handle it for you. I’ve forgotten to turn the eggs more than once, so don’t feel bad if you do too. If you’re like me, go with a built-in automatic turner so you don’t have to think about it.
Ease of Cleaning and Maintenance
After each hatch, incubators collect dust, dander, and residue that can harbor bacteria. Look for smooth plastic interiors, removable trays, and no hard-to-reach corners. I’ve learned the hard way that if it’s a pain to clean, you’ll put it off, and that’s when bacteria moves in.
My Favorite Quail Egg Incubators for 2025 (Tested and Trusted)
Here’s a quick rundown of the incubators that have worked best for me. Some are great for beginners, others better suited for bigger setups.
| Model | Capacity (Quail Eggs) | Key Features | Ideal For | Approx. Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hatching Time Setter & Hatcher | 200-468 | Automatic temp/humidity control, stackable trays | Serious breeders or multiple color lines | $700–$1,000 |
| GQF Sportsman 1502 | 270+ | Proven reliability, large capacity | Established breeders | $800–$900 |
| Borotto Lumia 8/56 | 24-70 | Precise digital controls, compact | Hobby breeders, small setups | $200–$550 |
| Brinsea Ovation Series | 24-96 | Excellent accuracy, easy to use | Beginners who value consistency | $300–$500 |
| Nurture Right 360 | 24 | Affordable, clear dome for visibility | First-time hatchers | $150–$180 |
My Experience and Recommendations
I’ve tried everything from budget tabletop units to big commercial cabinets, and these are the ones that have actually given me steady, reliable hatches.
- Best Overall: Hatching Time Setter & Hatcher — This is what I use for most of my coveys. It holds steady, cleans up easily, and once you’ve got it tuned right, it works beautifully.
- Best for Beginners: Nurture Right 360 — Great for small batches and teaching kids about incubation. The dome lid lets you watch the entire process.
- Most Reliable Midrange: Brinsea Ovation 28 — Great temperature control and totally worth it if you plan to hatch more than once or twice a year.
If you want to hear about the Hatching Time system in action, I’ve broken down the full setup and results in my Hatching Time Cabinet Incubator Review, including what my hatch rates look like over multiple runs.
How to Set Up a Quail Egg Incubator for Best Results
Choose a Stable Environment: Keep your incubator in a climate-controlled room (65–75°F). Keep it away from drafts, windows, and heat vents. Even small room changes can throw the incubator off.
Test and Calibrate Before Setting Eggs: Run the incubator for 24 hours empty to ensure stable readings. Use a digital thermometer and hygrometer inside to double-check accuracy.
Set Temperature and Humidity: Set to 99.5°F and 45–50% humidity for the first 14 days. For still-air incubators, measure temperature at the top of the eggs (should be about 101°F).
Load and Turn the Eggs: Place each egg pointed end down in the turner or tray. If your incubator has automatic turning, set it to rotate the eggs three to five times per day. For manual turning, rotate them by hand the same number of times, always an odd number so the eggs rest on the opposite side overnight.
Lockdown (Days 15–18): Stop turning the eggs on day 15 and move them from the turner to the hatching tray. Raise the humidity to around 65–70%, and from then on, keep the incubator closed as much as possible. Opening it can drop humidity fast and make it harder for chicks to hatch.
You’ll usually see the first chicks late on day 16 or 17, with a few stragglers through day 18.
Once the first chicks start hatching, make sure your brooder’s warmed up and ready. If you’re not sure what that looks like, my post on common brooding issues and how to solve them walks you through it.
Troubleshooting Common Incubation Problems
Temperature Fluctuations: Drafts or running the incubator in a room that’s too hot or too cold can cause those fluctuations. Set your incubator somewhere the temperature stays steady day and night. Keep it away from drafts, vents, or direct sun. Even small changes can throw the temperature off fast.
Low Hatch Rate: Usually caused by humidity issues or eggs being too old. Set eggs within 7 days for best results, though they can remain viable up to 10 days if stored properly. Store them at 55–65°F before incubation.
Sticky or Shrink-Wrapped Chicks: That’s a sign humidity dropped during lockdown. Next time, raise humidity earlier or avoid opening the incubator after day 15. On the flip side, running humidity too high early on can delay hatching or cause chicks to drown before pipping.
Mold or Odor After Hatch: Incomplete cleaning between batches can allow bacteria to build up. Give it a good wash and disinfect it after every hatch.
Frequently Asked Questions
Still have questions? Here are a few things people often ask after setting up their first incubator.
Most Coturnix begin hatching late on day 16 or 17, with a few stragglers through day 18.
Yes, but you may need quail egg trays or adapters. Many chicken incubators are slightly too large for the smaller eggs.
You can, but I don’t usually bother. Quail shells are so speckled that it’s hard to see much, even with a strong LED candler. Unless you’re troubleshooting a bad hatch or just plain curious, it’s not worth the hassle (or the risk of cooling the eggs down).
You can, but only if their temperature and humidity needs align. Quail eggs hatch faster than chicken or duck eggs, so I usually keep them separate.
Clean thoroughly, air dry, then store in a cool, dry room. Avoid basements or barns where humidity can cause corrosion.
Picking an incubator doesn’t need to be complicated. As long as it holds steady temp, keeps humidity right, and cleans up easily, you’re in good shape. Once you find the incubator that fits how you work, it’s just a matter of fine-tuning, and honestly, that part gets easier with every batch you run.
If your long-term goal is to run a productive, low-waste setup, you’ll love my post on sustainable quail keeping and how Coturnix quail make small-scale living easier. It ties incubation, feeding, and housing together into a system that saves time and feed costs day to day.
